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Posted by lasisei at 年02月13日 Input a set of angles you want lines generated at, and these will be placed sequentially throughout your 3D print. Clean your glass plate and then spread a bit of the glue onto it. Colorblind assist fdee.
 
 

 

Simplify 3D printing with Ultimaker Cura – Now part of the Ultimaker platform

 

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May 15, He has troubled the best of the batsmen with pace. An STL file does not contain any information regarding texture, color, or qualities such as flexibility or strength — only the shape and geometry. It is also possible to directly download G-code on certain websites like printables.

This requires you enter your printer settings and configuration before downloading the file and does entail some increased risk, with the benefit of not having to manually slice the file. Should you have the technology, STL files can also be created with a 3D scanner, which can scan an object and create an STL file from that scan.

Most desktop 3D printing users, however — and especially beginners — will either download STL files from online repositories, or design their own using CAD or other 3D design software, depending on experience and use case.

The internet is full of websites and resources for those seeking STL files. This error will typically show up when the head is “homing”, meaning when the printer is trying to find the origin point for the head.

This happens whenever you start a print. The head will move towards the back left corner of your printer and wait for the head to trigger the little limit switches that are located in this corner. If this doesn’t happen the way the firmware is expecting, it will throw this error. If the printer is making a terrible grinding noise just before this error shows up it might simply be that the head isn’t properly triggering the end switches.

The switches are located in the top left of the printer and should make a faint clicking sound when you move the print head towards the corner. If you turn off your printer you can easily move the head by hand to check this.

If either of the switches don’t make a sound before you physically can’t move your head any further that indicates that something is wrong. Likely you can fix this by simply using a pair of pliers and gently bending the little metal tab of the switch so that it triggers earlier. Also check that the fan shroud isn’t hitting the left wall of the printer and preventing the head from moving all the way to the left. If it does, use some gentle force and bend the fan shroud downwards a bit so that it clears the wall.

A common cause for this error is a loose pulley. If you’ve recently received your printer or if you’ve transported it there’s a small chance that vibrations have caused the little set screws to become loosened. In this case the most likely suspects are the pulleys that the short belts run over so start by checking the set screws of those pulleys.

The set screw of the pulley on the stepper motor shaft can be quite tricky to get to depending on what tools you have so you might have to remove the motor in order to get to it. This isn’t difficult but can be a bit scary if you’ve never done it before. The first step is to remove the white cover plates that hide the motors.

These are attached with two screws from the outside of the printer. Remove those and then lift the cover out. Next you will loosen the four screws that hold the motor in place and you will now be able to get to the little set screw.

When re-attaching the motor, make sure that the short belt is tight and that you don’t pinch any wires. This section of the guide shows you the screws and how to tighten the belts. Speaking of pinched wires. Now that you have the covers off it’s a good opportunity to check that the wires of the limit switches haven’t been pinched or damaged. The switches are located in the top left corner of the printer. Simply follow the wires and check that they look ok. If you’ve checked all the set screws and they are all tight, the next thing to check is the connections.

To do this you will have to remove the cover on the electronics board underneath your printer. Disconnect power and then unscrew these two screws which hold the cover in place:.

Once you’ve removed the cover you will check the wires going to the spots marked “X-stop” and “Y-stop”. Make sure the cables are plugged in properly. Set your multimeter to continuity check, disconnect the wire, probe the tiny metal tabs which you can see through the holes in the case of the plug and press the little end switch. You’ll likely need someone to help you here as it’s a job for three hands.

If none of the steps above find anything wrong the next step might be to see if there’s something wrong with the controller board. It’s best that you contact the place you bought your printer from if this is the case so that they can further help you.

Several things can be at play here as different issues can show very similar error in the print – a missing layer. One common cause can be temporary underextrusion. Extrusion is prohibited for some reason, such as a tangle on the spool, for a few layers and the printer then continues as normal.

See the underextrusion section for more information about this. Another cause can be a lack of lubrication on the z-axis threaded rod. Your printer came with a little bag of accessories, in there you will find a small sachet of green grease that is meant for the threaded rod. Spread out some grease on the rod and move the bed up and down to spread it out thoroughly. It’s important that you grab the bed towards the back of the machine while doing this so that you don’t risk bending the bed.

While doing this it’s a good idea to also inspect the screw to see that there isn’t some sort of debris causing issues such as a small piece of PLA for example. Next up is some sort of excessive friction causing the bed to bind up until the motor is able to break it free causing a sudden, and too large, drop of the bed. Turn the machine off and manually move the bed up and down to see if you can feel if there is a certain spot that seems to have much higher friction than the rest of the movement.

If you feel that the bed is binding somewhere it could be that the rods are not perfectly aligned with the linear bearings. A classic example of this is a drawer that is pushed in slightly askew, it will bind in place. To remedy this you will have to first remove the cover plate that hides the linear bearings. Two screws on the underside of the bed hold it in place. Once you have removed the screws you can simply lift it to free it. Use a piece of tape to hold it at the top of the printer, out of the way.

Now comes the tedious part. In order to re-align the bearing you need to loosen the four screws that hold each bearing in place. Loosen all but one of the 8 screws. As soon as you’ve done this it will be hard to move the bed as it will very easily bind in place, patience is key here.

Wiggle the bed and move it up and down a bit so that the bearing can self align, tighten one of the screws and then wiggle the platform again and then tighten the two remaining screws. Repeat the same process for the other bearing. Try moving the bed fully up and down and see if you got any improvement. You may have to repeat this once or twice as it can be tricky to get things in just the correct location.

One user reported that he had oiled the two thick rods of the z-stage and this caused issues. Once the oil had been cleaned off again, the problem went away. Worth a try. Due to a slight design flaw of a revision of the controller board it’s possible that some printers will have a problem where excess current to the stepper drivers cause issues.

What happens is that the stepper drivers overheat, the protection circuitry of the chip kicks in and shuts the driver down for a brief moment, during this moment there’s a chance that the bed moves down unpredictably. Thankfully this is usually easily fixed by simply lowering the current for the stepper motors.

The default value is mA, try lowering this to mA. Unfortunately it is also possible that something is wrong with either the rods or linear bearings of the z-stage. If you’ve tried all the other solutions listed above it might be time to contact your re-seller or Ultimaker themselves to get replacements for these.

Check to make sure that the parts of the spool holder that sticks into the machine isn’t hitting any part of the z-stage such as the “cap” that goes over the linear bearings or the bed itself. It’s possible that you could see some scratch marks on the holder itself.

The easiest way to get around this would be to simply take a file and remove a mm or two from the spool holder tabs. Another, more involved, way to possibly solve it is to move the bed forward.

This is done by removing the cover over the linear bearings, loosening the screws on the bearings and then pulling the bed forward. The tricky part here is to get the bearings perfectly aligned with the rods again afterwards.

It’s very easy for them to start binding if they’re not. Using a file will take a minute or two at most so it’s a much much less involved process. If you find that your prints looked skewed this could be the issue. You might find that your prints look like this, where things seem to fit when you line the prints up in the same direction they were printed, but as you rotate them around you find that they no longer fit at all.

You might also notice it just by looking at the printer from the top and notice that something doesn’t look quite right. Regardless, the fix is quite simple. There’s a couple of methods you can use, the first one we describe is the one we usually use.

You will start by turning off the machine so that you can move the head around freely by hand and then moving the head to the front center of the machine, as far towards you as it can go.

Now take a look where the black sliding blocks meet up with the pulleys at the corner. Check the distance between the pulley and the sliding block and compare it to the distance on the opposite side. You want this distance to be as close to identical on both sides as you can get it. If you find that there’s a difference you need to adjust it. To be able to do so you have to loosen the set screws of the two pulleys that control the movement of the sliding block. In this example we’re going to move the left hand side block and to do so we need to loosen these two pulleys.

It’s rare that you are lucky enough to be able to reach both screws without having to move the head so make a mental note of how much you need to move the block and then move the head so that you can reach the screws.

After you are done adjusting make sure you tighten the screws back up, and do it very tightly. Repeat the same procedure but this time put the head in the middle left or right if that’s more convenient. You may have to repeat this procedure a couple of times to get things perfect or close to it. The “downside” to using these is that you often run into the problem mentioned above where you can’t find a spot where you can reach both set screws.

There’s a couple of different ways this can happen. To make sure this doesn’t happen it’s important to make sure that the block is heated up to printing temperature when you change nozzles. If you don’t heat up the block, leftover plastic in the threads and on the mating surfaces of the block and nozzle can prevent them from making proper contact.

By heating up the block you cause the plastic to be runny and it will be pushed out of the way as you tighten. It’s also a good idea to print out this torque wrench so that you don’t over-tighten the nozzle. The other cause can be that the print comes loose from the platform or that it never stuck in the first place. If the print detaches from the platform it can stick to the nozzle and prevent plastic from flowing correctly.

This causes it to curl up and flow upwards along the side of the nozzle and block. Preventing this is a matter of correct bed levelling and making sure that the part has good adhesion to the platform during the print. Removing the block of plastic isn’t difficult but can require some patience and time. If you’re lucky you will now be able to remove the block of plastic in one go. At the very least you should be able to get rid of the worst of it. If the plastic wont budge, start increasing the temperature in increments until it starts to give in.

If the plastic has spread around the two wires coming out of the heater block you should be careful not to pull on the wires too hard as you might break them. It’s primarily the smaller of the two the sensor that can be a bit sensitive. If the plastic doesn’t become soft enough to remove by just heating up the block you can add additional heat by using a heat gun on a low setting. Just be careful that you don’t melt the fans. After you have removed most of the plastic you can heat the block up to printing temperature and simply wipe off most of the remaining plastic.

It’s not critical to remove every last trace of plastic but you don’t want to have big blobs still stuck that can melt and then drip down on your following prints. If you have trouble with the fan cover falling open or not wanting to close properly, there’s a good chance the metal bracket of the cover is slightly bent.

The fix for this is quite straight forward and easy to do. But before we begin disassembly it’s a good idea to check that the magnets are in place. There should be two small magnets inserted into holes in the cover, check that they are present. Also check that there isn’t something blocking the lid from closing properly. This could be a stray piece of plastic or a wire that has moved around.

If everything looks ok it’s time to remove the fan cap. One bit of warning before we begin, pay close attention to the wires when you remove and re-attach the cover, they are quite thin and can be damaged if you don’t pay attention.

Also try to work ESD safe and avoid touching the PCB in the back of the printhead that the print cores make contact with. Start by detaching the cover from the rest of the head.

Removing the cores first can be helpful to give yourself a bit more space to work with. The cover is held in place with two little plastic nubs that go through holes in the metal bracket.

Gently squeeze one side of the cover inwards and twist the whole cover to detach it. The cover will now be hanging from the wires that connect the bed leveling sensor and fan to the head.

Don’t pull to hard on these wires. Unscrew the two screws that hold the fan and the plastic part of the cover to the metal bracket. What you need to do now is to bend the metal bracket slightly so that it’s as close to a 90 degree bend as possible. Usually the amount of bending you need to do is quite small. Reverse the steps to re-assemble the print head.

Pay extra attention to the fan wire as it’s easy to pinch it with the screw that holds the fan in place. You may find that you have to spread the two tabs that hold the cover to the head apart a little bit to make it stay in place securely.

Your fan cap should now close properly and stay in place. This error most often happens because the main print head cable has worked itself out of the print head and is pulling on the internal connector causing intermittent contact. Usually this problem can be fixed by opening up the little cover on the top of the print head and reseating the cable. Start by removing the two screws towards the back of the print head and remove the little cover.

Sometimes it’s easier to get it to come loose if you put a small flat head screw driver in the little slots on either side of the cable and push gently. Once the lid is removed you will see a long white connector inside the print head. Use the screw driver and push down firmly on each side of this connector to make sure it is seated all the way down.

Push the cable down a bit further so that the individual wires are slightly bent so that they have some room to move. An optional, but recommended step is to add a small piece of tape around the cable to make it a bit thicker. This will help the strain relief to grab the cable more firmly. Put the cover back on and screw the screws back in don’t overdo it, you don’t need to crank these screws down very hard, firm is enough.

While we do not mind if you take parts of our guide to expand upon or use on your website for non commercial use, we do request that you provide a link back to us along the lines of:. Excerpt from “A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide” by 3DVerkstan. A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide On this page you’ll be able to visually try to match the problems you are having with your print and hopefully find enough information so that you can eliminate the issues you’re having.

If you find any inaccuracies or if something is unclear, please let us know Pillowing Top surfaces are not closed properly or come out bumpy. Elephant’s foot The lowest layers of the print flare out. Irregular circles Circles come out misshapen and lines are not properly touching. Warping Corners of the print lift and detach from the platform. Stringing Unwanted strands of plastic span across the print.

Ugly overhangs The lower surface of overhangs come out ugly. Gaps in bottom surface Lines are overly visible or spaced apart on the first layer.

Shifted layers Parts of the print suddenly shift along the X or Y axis. Prints are leaning Prints gradually lean over or become skewed. Under extrusion The printer is not extruding enough plastic leaving gaps in the print.

Walls not touching Parts of, or entire walls of the print are not fused and touching. Lower parts of the print cave in The lowest parts of the print appear to shrink before reaching the proper dimensions. Filament grinding The feeder screw has ground a groove into the filament. Scratched top surface The nozzle moves across the top surface and causes what looks like scratches. Protruding axes One or more rods are sticking out from the side of the printer. Expected voids are completely filled in.

X or Y switch broken The display shows a message indicating that a switch is broken, typically during homing. Misaligned axes The rods going through the head are not perfectly square. Caked nozzle Plastic has leaked or extruded incorrectly and encased the nozzle in plastic.

Front cover falling open The front fan cover will not stay closed. Pillowing Top surfaces are not closed properly or come out bumpy.